From rain jackets and makeup to frying pans, chances are, you own an item that includes Pfas.
These man-made chemicals, which have been associated with negative health effects, including high cholesterol and decreased immunity, are hard to escape. Also known as “forever chemicals”, they take a very, very long time to break down, accumulating in the environment and our bodies. Although they’ve garnered the attention of activists, who have called for stricter regulations, Pfas have been found in everything from drinking water to household cleaning products.
Another category on that list? Activewear.
Last month, the Texas attorney general announced an investigation into the activewear brand Lululemon, known for its leggings, for potentially containing Pfas in its apparel. In a press release, the attorney general’s office accused the brand of not accurately representing “the safety, quality, and health impacts of its products”. In a statement, Lululemon said its products complied with global safety standards.
How worried should we be about Pfas in leggings? We spoke to three researchers who have studied their presence in feminine hygiene products, water sources and even firefighting gear.
Dr Graham Peaslee, professor emeritus of Duke University, Dr Scott Bartell, a professor of environmental and occupational health at UC Irvine, and Alyssa Wicks, a researcher at Duke University, explain just how Pfas in our activewear affects our health and whether you really need to throw out your pair of $100 Lululemon leggings. Plus, how to find Pfas-free alternatives.
Our expert vetted picks for Pfas-free activewear
Are leggings with Pfas bad for you?
“We don’t fully understand how Pfas permeate the skin. But if you’re wearing leggings, it’s going to be often, if you’re working out in them, you’re going to have sweat, which is going to presumably [result] in some permeation of Pfas through the skin,” said Wicks.
One of the most vulnerable spots? “The crotch area,” Peaslee says, due to thinner skin’s “high dermal absorption capability”. Other susceptible areas include your underarms and neck, though leggings may be less of a concern there.
Research also shows that buying products containing Pfas can have negative impacts for public health .“Every time you wash these leggings, you may be shedding Pfas that then end up in our wastewater and can come back around to drinking water,” said Wicks.
“So even if I don’t wear leggings (typically), I will be exposed to Pfas by everybody else who wears leggings with Pfas,” Peaslee wrote in an email.
“Pfas exposure in general has been linked to a variety of adverse health conditions, including immune development, impaired liver function, and some types of cancer,” said Bartell.
All that said, scientists continue to research the potential health effects of Pfas. Dr Bartell emphasized that wearing leggings containing Pfas is a “pretty small percentage of overall exposure”. Rather, the most likely source of exposure is your diet and your drinking water. A 2023 study estimated that 45% of our tap water may contain Pfas.
What should I do if my leggings contain Pfas?
You don’t need to throw them away, Peaslee said. “Think about how many sources you’re exposed to every day. Your biggest source is probably what you drink and what you eat. This is because there is a direct pathway into the bloodstream from what you drink and eat, while the dermis is a pretty good protector against most chemicals.”
To avoid Pfas exposure in your everyday life, Bartell recommended using filters for drinking water, and choosing hard floor coverings instead of carpeting, some of which are manufactured with these forever chemicals. As for Pfas you’ve already been exposed to, he suggested donating blood, which has been shown to reduce levels by 10% (although he noted that this transfers Pfas to the recipient). People who menstruate also naturally lose blood, which reduces the levels of Pfas in their system.
Other research points towards changes to your diet. For instance, one study found that eating more fiber can help reduce Pfas already in your body.
Why do activewear brands use Pfas?
Some brands purposely add Pfas to clothing to make them stain or water-resistant. Other times, they’re added unintentionally.
“There’s just so many places along the manufacturing process that Pfas can be used – in the machinery and different oils that may be used to keep all the machines running,” said Wicks. Research has shown that “trace amounts” may still wind up in consumer goods, despite a brand advertising its products as Pfas-free.
“What [may be] true for Lululemon [may be] true for most textile manufacturers of any source. It’s not just restricted to Lululemon,” said Bartell. In one instance of lab testing, Pfas were detected in garments from athletic brands including Nike, Beyond Yoga and Alo Yoga.
How do I know if leggings contain Pfas?
“In most places, you won’t be able to find that on the label, as there are no disclosure requirements,” said Bartell.
Instead, our experts recommended keeping an eye out for certifications that hold specific requirements regarding Pfas concentrations.
Dr Bartell advised looking for an OEKO-TEX certification, which requires a product to be free of more than 1,000 harmful chemicals, including the intentional use of Pfas.
Wicks also suggested shopping for pieces that have a Global Organic Textile Standard (Gots) certification, which also prohibits Pfas.
What brands make Pfas-free activewear?
The activewear brand Mate The Label has a Gots certification and labels its products as Pfas-free. Another non-toxic option is LNDR, which holds an OEKO-TEX certification. In 2023, REI also announced its clothing products would be Pfas-free. (And its leggings, like this sweat-wicking pair and this cropped option, happen to be discounted right now for the brand’s anniversary sale.)
Other pieces you might enjoy from the Filter, the Guardian’s guide to buying fewer, better things:
